Sarah Ahmed Tantalizes Participant Palate’s with Portuguese Wine

In just over 6 weeks, many of you will be joining us in Lisbon, Portugal, to taste a vast and diverse amount of Portuguese wine. However, many of you may not know a lot about it, and currently find yourself craving more information. So in lieu of your new found passion, we asked the internationally awarded wine writer, with a peculiar passion for Portuguese wine, Sarah Ahmed, if we could ask her a few questions about both the quality and intrigue surrounding Portuguese wine.

The crew at the EWBC want to thank Sarah for generously offering us her time – especially after the launch of her new blog – and if you have any questions for Sarah, please don’t hesitate to leave them in the comments below, as we know she would love nothing more than to spark your curiosity and passion before your arrival.

What makes Portugal such an enticing place for wine lovers to experience?

I first visited Portugal in 2004 and, in a week, we’d gone from the Douro to the Alentejo and in and amongst.  And it was clear to me that this was one exciting country for wine lovers.  Why?  Its very “Portugueseness” if there is such a word – you don’t find these grape varieties, this kind of food or landscape anywhere else.  Several visits later (and counting!), confidence and pride about its unique heritage of grape varieties is brimming and more and more regions are realising the full potential of their grapes and terroir.  So it’s about authentic points of difference and not difference for the sake of it – this is beyond a marketing USP.

What grapes would you highly suggest a passionate wine enthusiast seek out during their visit?

Touriga Nacional has emerged as the flagship variety and it has some beautiful qualities, no question, but I truly believe that, with a few exceptions (notably Baga), for reds in particular, Portugal’s great strength is its blends.  So please, let’s not go all single varietal – that would be un-Portuguese!  So I’m just going to mention some whites to check out that do perform well on their own – Arinto, typically on its own/the super dominant partner in the wines of Bucelas – great citrus fruit, cut with racy acidity – Riesling with flesh and bone,  Siria from Beira Interior for its naughty but nice honied, tropical fruit, Alvarinho and Loureiro from Vinho Verde because they are helping to change outmoded perceptions of this high quality region.

Are there any specific restaurants or wine shops that rank high on your list to experience?

I shall never forget a lunch at Restaurante Panorama in Melgaco, Vinho Verde’s Alvarinho hotspot.  It’s the only restaurant I’m going to mention because, if you go, I’m very sure you’ll come around to my views about Vinho Verde if you’re not already a convert!  And if you’re still not sure, check out my report of a vertical tasting of Quinta de Soalheiro wines.

I must say, I never get a chance to shop in Portugal on my travels, but I did stay next door to Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon on a recent trip and who can resist their 6 pack of still warm custard tarts with a Moscatel de Setubal, madeira or tawny port, of which they have a great selection. In the UK, Andy Paterson at The Halifax Wine Company is a terrific ambassador for Portuguese wines, table and fortified.

What are some misconceptions you’ve heard over the years about Portugal and its wines?

Of reds, tannic and tough, rustic – fair point in the past but Portugal has come on in leaps and bounds without sacrificing the edge of tannin and acidity that defines its northerly regions’ wines.  And in the south, Alentejo does round, ripe, heady and fruitful as well as anywhere if that’s your bag.  Of whites, dull and oxidised – again fair point in the past but this is an area of dramatic and super-positive change – please take another look!!!

Are there any Portuguese food and wine pairings that you’ve fallen in love with?

Alvarinho with fresh brown crabmeat on toast at Restaurante Panorama, Serra de Estrela sheeps cheese with quince jam and a tawny/colheita port, Sercial madeira with olives/smoked almonds. I’m not a meat eater but hearty bacalhau (salt cod) casseroles with whole roasted potatoes, garlic and a ton of olive oil works well with red wines – Baga from Bairrada cuts through the richness very well and, of course, it’s great with modern full-bodied white blends from the Douro or Alentejo, which often have a green olive note.

Name 1 region that is traditionally overlooked by wine lovers?

Beira Interior is a region to watch – Siria for whites, sometimes with Fonte Cal for minerality and lifted, floral, elegant but well-structured reds from the lead Dao/Douro varieties.